Donkey riders are a common sight in Goreme, where the old village life and tourism mingle. Some rock-caves are still inhabited. Fields are still fertilized with guano collected in the dove cotes into which the birds are returning. Pottery and wine are still produced by old methods. The great expanses of bizarre eroded volcanic matter and the startling changes of light are dazzling. The fascinating Ufuk Pension in Goreme is our home for five days. (Ufuk means horizon in Turkish). We sleep in a cave room, dine and hang out in the dining room with Ismail, the entrepreneur-owner, his family and friends

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