Near the Istanbul tea house where I met the “richest man in Turkey” is the Cembelitas Bath, a hamam. It has two identical chambers, separate for men and women. I leave clothes and valuables in a lockers area, wrap a bath towel around me, and enter this domed room with a heated marble platform in the center. The masseur scrubs off dead skin, then uses a pillow case to make an extraordinary amount of suds for washing and massage. I leave with a spring in my step.

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